Tutorial: Wings

Tools and Supplies:
- Zap-A-Gap is an excellent super glue used for miniatures and modeling. For particularly small parts, put some Zap-A-Gap on a space piece of plastic and, using tweezers, dip the small part into the glue -- it's a lot more accurate than using the tip of the bottle.Zap-A-Gap
- Green Stuff, or Kneadatite, is the most common two-part epoxy that sculpters use to craft miniatures. This is not due to any wonderful sculpting properties (in fact, it sculpts somewhat like chewing gum), but because it's heat resistant enough to survive the vulcanizing mold process. Most miniature stores carry this now.Green Stuff or Brown Stuff, another sort of Kneadatite (aka green stuff), is an excellent two-part epoxy for defining sharp surfaces such as swords and armour. It's not as sticky and dries harder but is a little more expensive.Brown Stuff
- 0.032 Brass Rod
- Pliers or wire benders
- Parchment paper
- White(PVA) Glue
- Tyranid Monstrous Scything Talon arms (for tyranid wings)
- Citadel White Primer
- Appropriate paints (varies depending on wing type)
S
o you've decided to join the swirling swarm of a Tyranid Hive Fleet and need some madly flapping winged warriors. Or perhaps your Dragon Disciple character from D&D has come of age and now the miniature needs wings. What about a conversion to replace an existing dragon's small wings with ones that actually look like they can provide the thing with some real lift? Look no further for all shall be explained.
In my case, I needed a brood of flying Tyranid Warriors. As such, this tutorial will use one of those miniatures as the example, but this technique can be applied to any sort of miniature that needs to fly.
For a natural wing look, you can't improve on Mother Nature. I ran a Google search to find an appropriate bat wing skeleton. This we'll use as a template so that we can get the bone shapes and layout accurate (or at least close enough to make a reasonable facsimile).

Photo from Bone Clones. Used without permission. All rights reserved.
Click here for some anatomy on bat wings if you're curious. Don't worry -- no pop quizzes later!
Click here for some anatomy on bat wings if you're curious. Don't worry -- no pop quizzes later!
An important thing to notice is how a bat's wing is essentially the same framework as a human's arm and hand. You can see each finger, the thumb, and the forearm. The membrane is stretched across these base bones like the canvas on a tent.
It can be argued that fantasy monsters shouldn't follow the rules of real creatures. I disagree; using reality as a guide makes our conversion believable. However, you'll see as the tutorial progresses that reality is a guideline for enhancing our work, not a strict rule.

The great thing about plastic is that it's very easy to work. I used a hobby knife to "nip" away at the last joint until it was cut off. You could also use a jeweler's saw or modeler's mitre blade to achieve this.
If you're not working on tyranids, you could still use these particular pieces -- they cost $5.00 US for the sprue and there's no law saying you can't mix and match pieces from various companies to achieve the look you want.
Alternately, clip the hands off your miniature and file down the arms until you have a suitable shape to use as the basis for the wing. You may need to build up the wrist with green stuff to have a large enough area to insert brass rod later (more on this below). Of course, this won't work too well if you want wings AND arms and legs on your miniature.

Time to work on the frames for the wing bones. Bend a length of 0.032 brass rod or wire and try to follow the contour of the batwing template. With this thickness, it's easy to do with your fingers, but you could use small pliers if that's more comfortable.
For my wings, I'll have three wing bones. The longest will be 80mm, the middle one will be 50mm, and the shortest will be 45mm.
For my wings, I'll have three wing bones. The longest will be 80mm, the middle one will be 50mm, and the shortest will be 45mm.
Whatever option you choose, the target goal should be a shape that is more or less similar to the tyranid scything talon arm in the photo above: an "L" shape. This will form the anchor to our wing.
Don't worry if the angle of the bends don't match the template perfectly. As long as they're in the same place in relation to one another (and to the matching wing), it'll look fine. Besides, real creatures have flex and motion and rarely have their bones in precise positions.
If you found this tutorial helpful, why not donate to Necrotales to let me know? |